How Do You Seal A Clay Trinket Dish?
Sealing clay pieces serves several important purposes. Applying a protective sealant to baked polymer or air-dry clay helps prevent moisture absorption, which can cause clay to become soft, sticky, and misshapen over time. Sealing also enhances durability and resilience against chipping, scratching, and breaking. In addition, it provides a smooth, finished look and creates a surface that is easy to clean and maintain.
Polymer clays like Sculpey and Fimo as well as natural clays like pottery clay require sealing before use. Air-dry clays can benefit from sealing as well, depending on the project. Any clay piece that will be handled frequently or exposed to moisture should be sealed to protect detail work and prevent damage.
Sealing gives clay pieces a uniform surface coating that brings out vibrancy and depth of color. It provides a transparent top coat that allows the natural properties and textures of the clay to show through. Sealants come in various finishes like high-gloss, satin, or matte to enable different decorative effects. With the proper sealing and care, clay artworks and functional items can be cherished for years.
Prepare the Clay
Before applying any type of sealant to your clay trinket dish, it’s important to properly prepare the clay surface. Make sure the clay is fully dried and cured. Air dry clay typically takes 24-48 hours to completely dry. You’ll know it’s ready when the color appears more matte and the clay feels harder.
Carefully check the entire surface and sand down any rough or uneven areas with extra fine grit sandpaper. This will help the sealant fully adhere. Use a soft brush to remove any dust or debris left over from sanding.
You can also wash the clay with a mild detergent and warm water solution. Let it fully dry afterward. This helps remove any residual oil or grime on the surface. Proper preparation ensures you’ll achieve the best sealed finish.
Choosing a Sealant
There are several types of sealants that can be used on clay projects:
Varnish
Varnish is a common sealant for clay. It provides a glossy, protective coating and is available in various finishes from matte to high-gloss. Varnish seals effectively against moisture and can be layered for added protection. It dries quickly and is easy to apply with a brush. The drawbacks are that varnish can sometimes cause clay to darken slightly, and it may feel tacky initially until fully cured.
Resin
Two-part resin offers a thick, plastic-like coating for clay pieces. Resin provides the most durable seal and moisture protection. It leaves a glassy, shiny finish. Resin can feel rubbery on thin applications, so multiple coats are needed for best results. Resin takes longer to cure than other sealants, and has strong fumes during application that require proper ventilation.
Wax
Wax like beeswax or carnuba wax provides light moisture protection for clay with a soft, matte look. Wax will repel water but does not create an impermeable seal. It is best for pieces that will not be frequently handled or washed. Wax is easy to apply and buff out. Regular reapplication is needed as it wears off over time.
Food-Safe Sealants
For any clay item that will come in contact with food, use a sealant designated as food-safe. Food-safe epoxy resin, beeswax, and some specialty clay varnishes are good options. Avoid using products like polyurethane varnish or products with solvents on dinnerware.
Applying the Sealant
When it comes to applying a sealant to your clay trinket dish, you have three main options: brushing, dipping, or spraying. Each method has its pros and cons.
Brushing allows you to evenly coat the surface while getting into small crevices and details. Use a soft bristle brush and apply the sealant in smooth, even strokes. Thin coats tend to work better than thick ones.
Dipping is quick and easy but can result in drips and uneven coverage. Fully submerge the clay piece into the sealant, then lift it out slowly and let excess drip off. Rotate and redip until fully coated.
Spraying with an airbrush or aerosol can allows a fine mist application, but make sure to do it outside or in a ventilated area. Apply light coats and avoid pooling.
In general, multiple thin coats of sealant with drying time in between works better than one thick coat. 2-4 thin coats are often needed for full protection. Allow each coat to fully dry for 30-60 minutes before adding the next. Thicker layers can end up with drips or cloudiness.
Follow the sealant manufacturer’s recommendations for number of coats and drying time. Be patient and allow the full curing process to maximize durability.
Curing and Drying
Proper curing is essential for the sealant to fully set and achieve maximum durability. The curing conditions, mainly temperature and humidity, will determine how long the drying process takes.
Ideally, sealed pieces should be cured at room temperature between 68-77°F. Temperatures outside of this range can negatively impact drying. Increased heat speeds drying but risks cracking or bubbling, while colder temperatures slow the process. Humidity levels should be kept moderately low, around 40-60% relative humidity.
On average, most water-based sealants fully cure within 2-3 days at optimal temperature and humidity. Oil-based products may take up to 7 days. However, drying time can vary based on the specific sealant used, thickness of application, humidity, and clay composition.
To test if a piece is fully cured, allow the estimated drying time to pass and then touch the surface gently with a finger. There should be no transfer of product or tackiness. Sealed items are safe to handle once completely hardened without risk of smudging the finish.
Achieving Different Finishes
By experimenting with sealants and application techniques, you can achieve a variety of finishes on your clay piece. Some popular finishes include glossy, satin, matte, distressed, and a smooth buffed sheen.
For a high-gloss finish, apply multiple thin coats of a gloss varnish, sanding lightly between coats. Polyurethane or epoxy resin also produces a glass-like glossy shine. Allow each coat to fully cure before adding the next.
A satin sheen has a soft luster, while still allowing the texture of the clay to show through. An acrylic sealer diluted with water creates this look. You can also mix gloss and matte sealants.
Matte or flat finishes provide a muted, non-reflective look. Matte sealants include acrylic polymer medium, chalk paint finishes, and some spray sealants. Be sure to follow package directions.
For a distressed finish, apply the sealant unevenly so some areas have less protection. Use fine grit sandpaper to rub away the top coat of sealer after drying. Apply a dark glaze or antique wash, then seal again.
You can also buff sealed pieces with a soft cloth to achieve a smooth, soft sheen. Use a circular polishing motion. Avoid over-buffing or you may rub through the sealant.
Sealing Intricate or Delicate Pieces
When sealing intricate or delicate clay pieces, special care needs to be taken to fully seal tiny crevices and details without damaging the piece. Drips, runs, and bubbles of sealant may be especially problematic on fragile clay work.
To avoid issues, apply sealant in very thin, controlled coats using a small paintbrush. Slowly build up layers, letting each fully dry before adding more. Rotate and inspect the piece from all angles as you work to ensure coverage. Pieces with deep crevices may need extra attention to prevent trapped air bubbles.
An alternate method is to lightly brush a layer of wax or glaze over the clay before sealing. This helps protect detailed areas and gives the sealant a smooth surface to adhere to.
Fragile clay pieces require gentle handling while sealing and drying. Rest pieces on soft surfaces and avoid moving them unnecessarily before the sealant has fully cured. Delicate protrusions like thin appendages are prone to breaking when wet.
With care and patience, even the most intricate clay art can be effectively sealed and preserved.
Protecting and Handling
Once your clay dish is fully sealed, it’s important to take proper care of it to get the longest life out of the sealant. Here are some tips for protecting and handling your sealed clay:
Allow the sealant to fully cure before using or handling the clay dish. It can take up to a week for some sealants to reach full hardness. Handling too early can damage the sealant coating.
Be gentle when handling to avoid chipping or scratching the seal. Don’t use harsh scrubbing or cleaning methods. Use a soft cloth to gently clean.
Over time, the sealant may start to wear down. Reapply a fresh coat of sealant as needed to maintain protection. A good rule of thumb is to reseal every 1-2 years with average use.
When washing a sealed clay dish, avoid soaking and use mild soap and water. Dishwasher cleaning is not recommended as the heat and harsh detergents can degrade the sealant over time.
Storing sealed clay out of direct sunlight can help the sealant last longer before needing to be reapplied. Avoid exposing clay to moisture or humidity whenever possible.
Troubleshooting Issues
Sealing clay can sometimes lead to problems like bubbling, cracking, cloudiness, stickiness, or issues with coverage and drying. Here are some tips for troubleshooting common problems when sealing clay:
Bubbling or Cracking
If you notice bubbling or cracking of the sealant, the clay likely wasn’t fully dried before sealing. Ensure clay is fully cured before applying any sealant. Also avoid applying too thick of a sealant layer, and make sure to follow package directions for drying times.
White Hazy Appearance
A white or milky haze can happen if the sealant is applied too heavily, or if the previous layer wasn’t fully dry. Try applying thinner layers and allowing more drying time between coats.
Sticky Residue
If the sealed clay feels sticky or tacky long after drying, the sealant may have been applied too heavily. Try gently wiping away the sticky residue with a soft cloth dampened with water or rubbing alcohol. Allow to fully dry again before handling.
Uneven Coverage
Make sure to apply sealant in thin, even layers. Rotate the piece to coat all sides. Avoid overworking one area as it can start to dissolve the clay. If there are streaks or uneven sealing, try applying additional light coats to build up coverage.
Sealant Not Drying
Ensure the product you are using is compatible for sealing clay. Check that clay is fully cured before sealing. Make sure to use the recommended drying times according to the sealant’s instructions. Provide adequate airflow while drying. If sealant still won’t cure, you may need to gently wash away the tacky layer and start over.
Sealing Other Clay Types
The sealing process is largely the same for other clay types like polymer clay and air-dry clay, but there are some modifications that may be required depending on the specific clay.
Polymer clays do not require sealing as they cure by oven heating rather than air drying. The clay hardens during baking, creating a durable finish. Sealing polymer clay is optional for added protection and sheen.
Air-dry clays cure at room temperature so sealing helps protect the finish. Let air-dry pieces fully cure before sealing. Water-based sealants work best for porous air-dry clays. Apply multiple thin coats to slowly build up a protective layer.
Fired clays like terra cotta and earthenware require high heat kiln firing to fully cure. Once fired, these pieces become waterproof and do not need sealing. However, some potters choose to seal fired pieces for enhanced durability and appearance.
For any clay type, assess if the surface is porous and prone to stains. Sealing is most important for pieces that will be frequently handled or washed. Delicate sculptures or display items may not require sealing if they are for decorative purposes only.