What Is The Difference Between European Gold And Antique Gold Rub And Buff?

Defining European Gold and Antique Gold

European gold refers to 10-14k gold jewelry that is common in Europe. This lower karat gold contains more alloy metals like silver, copper, and zinc mixed with the gold, resulting in a lighter, more affordable gold than traditional 14k or 18k yellow gold jewelry. The lower gold content allows jewelers to create white and rose gold alloys as well.¹

Antique gold refers to a brushed gold finish meant to imitate the look of aging, well-worn jewelry. This finish is created by applying an oxidizing chemical to gold jewelry and then brushing away some of the oxidation to reveal the gold underneath. The result is a softer, duller gold color with a vintage vibe. Antique gold finishes can be applied to any karat of gold jewelry.

Karats of European Gold

European gold jewelry is commonly available in 10 karat (10K or 417), 14 karat (14K or 585), and 18 karat (18K or 750) purities. The numbers 10K, 14K, etc refer to how much pure gold content is present in the alloy by weight.

10 karat gold contains 41.7% pure gold, 14 karat gold contains 58.5% pure gold, and 18 karat gold contains 75% pure gold. The remaining percentage is other metals added to the alloy like silver, copper, and zinc.

Lower karat gold like 10K and 14K is more durable for everyday wear since other metals strengthen the gold alloy. Higher karat gold like 18K is softer but has a richer yellow color since it contains more pure gold content (Gold Jewellery: Colour, Carat & Purity).

While 18K gold is popular for special occasion jewelry, 10K and 14K tend to be the most common karats used in European gold jewelry for their balance of gold content and durability (European Gold).

Alloys Used in European Gold

European gold jewelry is most commonly alloyed with silver, copper, and zinc to create different colors and hardness levels. These alloys allow jewelers to work with lower karat gold while still maintaining beauty and durability.

Silver is commonly alloyed with gold because it hardens the metal, increases durability, and gives it a pale yellow or white color depending on the ratio used. According to Gems Society, a gold alloy with 20% silver creates a pale yellow 18k gold, while 25% silver produces white 14k gold. Jewelry Metals 101: Gold, Silver, and Platinum – Gems Society

Copper is another typical alloying metal, providing a pinkish hue to rose gold alloys. 18k rose gold contains 25% copper along with 25% silver and 75% gold. The higher copper content gives it a reddish color compared to yellow gold alloys. Copper also increases hardness and durability. Gold Alloys Guide – BullionByPost

Finally, zinc may be used in small amounts as a bleaching agent to lighten the gold color. But too much zinc can make the alloy brittle. A little zinc helps modify the color while maintaining workability.

Benefits of Lower Karat Gold:

Lower karat gold like 10k and 14k offer some compelling benefits over higher karat gold like 18k or 24k.

One of the main benefits is increased durability. As the karat goes down, more base metals like copper and silver are added to the gold alloy. This makes the metal harder and more resistant to scratches and damage (1). 10k and 14k gold is significantly more durable than higher karat versions, making lower karat gold a better choice for pieces that will be worn every day.

Another major benefit is lower cost. With less actual gold content, 10k and 14k gold costs substantially less per ounce than 18k or especially 24k. This makes lower karat gold much more affordable and accessible for jewelry buyers on a budget (2). While high karat gold has a richness in color, lower karat offers the opportunity to get real gold pieces at a fraction of the price.

In summary, opting for 10k or 14k over 18k or 24k gold provides increased durability for everyday wear and significant savings in cost. These practical benefits make lower karat gold an excellent choice for many jewelry purchases.

Sources:

(1) https://shop.kenanddanadesign.com/pages/gold-10k-14k-18k-22k-24k

(2) https://www.diamonds.pro/education/10k-14k-18k-24k-gold-compared/

Downsides of Lower Karat Gold

Lower karat gold alloys like 14k and 10k have some drawbacks compared to higher purity gold. The main downside is that lower karat gold has less actual gold content and more alloy metals mixed in. For example, 14k gold contains only 58.3% pure gold, while 18k gold contains 75% pure gold.

The lower gold purity results in a less brilliant golden color compared to higher karat gold. The more gold that is present in the alloy, the richer and more brilliant the yellow gold color will be. So 18k and especially 24k gold will have a much deeper, shinier golden tone than 14k or 10k gold.

According to https://www.bengarelick.com/blogs/news/10k-vs-14k-gold, if you were to hold 14k gold side-by-side with 18k or 24k gold, the color difference would be noticeable, with 14k appearing lighter and less vibrant.

The other downside is that lower karat gold is generally softer and more prone to scratches and wear over time. The higher purity gold alloys are more durable for daily wear. So jewelry made of 14k or 10k may require more maintenance to keep it looking pristine.

Creating an Antique Gold Finish

There are a few different techniques that can be used to create an antique gold finish on jewelry or other metal objects. The most common methods involve either brushing a chemical solution onto the gold surface or submerging the item in a chemical bath.

One of the simplest ways to antique gold is to brush on a liver of sulfur solution. This chemical contains sulfur compounds that react with the gold to create a darkened, aged effect. The liver of sulfur is applied with a small brush or cotton swab in a random pattern to dull and darken some areas of the gold more than others. This gives an uneven, aged finish.

Another technique is to submerge the gold jewelry in a bath of chemicals like sodium sulfide or potassium sulfide. These sulfur-based solutions react with the surface of the gold to form a sulfurized layer which darkens the appearance. The metal can be left in the bath for varying lengths of time to control the depth of the antique finish. Removing the item and rinsing stops the reaction when the desired look is achieved.

In addition to sulfur compounds, certain acids like muriatic acid can be used to etch an antique finish onto gold surfaces. The acid eats away tiny amounts of metal to create a slightly pitted, irregular surface texture with a tarnished appearance.

Whichever solution is used, achieving an authentic aged gold finish requires cleaning any remaining chemicals off completely after the antiques process. The gold should then be polished and sealed for protection and to stabilize the new patinated surface.

Benefits of Antique Gold Finish

One of the biggest benefits of an antique gold finish is that it provides jewelry with a unique vintage aesthetic. Unlike shiny yellow gold, antique gold has a muted, warmer tone that gives pieces an aged, timeworn look. This style was especially popular during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, so antique gold-finished jewelry evokes a classic, romantic feeling.

An antique gold finish is also praised for its ability to disguise small scratches and signs of wear. The dark patina helps hide small imperfections in the metal that would be more visible against bright shiny gold. This makes antique gold finishing ideal for vintage or frequently worn pieces where some wear is expected. The dark finish creates a “lived-in” look while diminishing the appearance of scuffs and scratches that naturally accumulate over time.

Overall, the vintage appeal and camouflaging abilities of antique gold finishing make it a popular choice for jewelry, particularly for romantic or vintage-inspired designs.

Downsides of Antique Gold Finish

While antique gold finishes have an elegant, vintage look, there are some downsides to be aware of when considering this finish for your jewelry:

Over time, antique gold can wear down through regular use and exposure to elements like water or chemicals from skin care products or household cleaners. This can dull the finish and cause it to lose some of its luster and depth of color over many years of wear (The Dark Side of Antique & Vintage Jewellery).

Antique gold also does not have the brilliant, light-reflecting qualities of polished and shiny new gold. The matte finish scatters light rather than reflecting it back sharply. So antique gold will not have the radiance and “sparkle factor” of pieces with a high-polished finish.

While some may appreciate the subtler, more muted look of antique gold, those wanting their jewelry to have a very eye-catching gleam may prefer gold pieces with a mirror-like polished finish over the patina of antique gold.

Caring for European and Antique Gold Jewelry

Properly caring for European and antique gold jewelry requires following some basic guidelines to keep the pieces looking their best. Both types of gold should be gently cleaned with a soft cloth to remove dirt and oils from the skin. Avoid using chemical cleaners or abrasives that can damage the gold. For antique pieces, clean with a soft toothbrush and mild soap and water. Rinse and pat dry with a soft cloth.

When not being worn, store European and antique gold pieces separately in a jewelry box or fabric-lined case to prevent scratching and tangling. Antique gold is more prone to tarnishing, so use anti-tarnish strips in storage cases. Avoid exposing jewelry to hairspray, perfume, chlorine, or other chemicals that can cause corrosion or discoloration. Remove gold jewelry before bathing, swimming, exercising, cleaning, and applying lotions.

Antique gold, especially low karat gold, is more delicate and prone to bending or breaking. Avoid exposing it to shocks, pressure, or excessive handling. Have antique gold pieces professionally repaired instead of trying to reshape or fix them yourself. With proper care and storage, European and antique gold jewelry will last for many years.

How to Tell the Difference

The main visual and tactile difference between European gold and antique gold jewelry is the color. European gold tends to have a brighter, shinier yellow or white color depending on the karat. Antique gold has a much warmer, muted tone that shows the patina of age.

When examining a piece of antique gold jewelry, the gold will have a soft glow and richer, more saturated color compared to new European gold. Antique gold also has small abrasions, tiny dents, and may show signs of previous repairs that give it a nostalgic, vintage look.

The softness and malleability of pure 24K gold means that antique pieces will show a brassy undertone in recessed areas where the gold has been rubbed and handled over decades or centuries of wear. This is especially visible on high-touch areas like ring bands, bracelet clasps, and earring posts.

Other indications that gold jewelry is antique rather than new include:
– Filled or blackened engravings where enamel may have worn away over time.
– Imperfections in gemstones from less advanced cutting techniques.
– Marks of repair like solder lines, replaced or tightened prongs, or reshanked ring bands.

You can read this article from Quick Jewelry Repairs to learn more visual cues for identifying antique and vintage jewelry.